It’s been a while since anything on Angove Street has piqued my interest. I’ve been to all the cafe’s, I’ve raged at the Rosie but I just feel that generally North Perth is old, tired and boring (ok.. the new beer garden at the Rose is pretty impressive). Hordes of people still flock to the area for breakfast at their old fave but I’m always on the hunt for something new.. and it doesn’t get any newer than The Old Laundry.
This small bar is covering all bases from sunrise to sunset. I love the idea of a neighbourhood small bar – drop in for a dirty martini after work and stay for dinner and a nightcap. But a small bar serving breakfast? Could this go down the same dismal path as a pub serving breakfast?
Whilst its neighbours are cramming people in every possible space, you’ll have enough room to push your chair out and get your lounge on at this place. The fit out is impressive and is very much in keeping with the look of North Perth. The back courtyard looks like a place anyone would love to sit with a bottle of wine and some olives and bread.
The menu is simple yet classy and surprisingly well priced considering the most expensive dish is $19. For that you’ll get the big breakfast – eggs, house stewed beans, grilled tomato and fried chorizo. There is an obvious Spanish and Mexican slant to the menu but if you’re not a fan of chorizo, they’ve still got you covered with things like granola ($15) and eggs on toast ($10). If you have the kids in tow, they will do a half serve of eggs on toast by request.
Northbridge Coffee Roasters supply the java here and it’s an impressive brew. It has a deep robust flavour and the barista got the milk spot on to make for a creamy cup of coffee that was worthy of a second order.
My sister Sarah was heading out to a picnic later that morning so went with a light option – the smashed avocado ($16) with a side of bacon ($5). The avo was fresh and seasoned well, with the creamy persian feta helping it along its way. Two poached eggs perched on top were perfect with their warm runny yolks seeping into the dish. Sadly, the bacon was a let down. The over cooked pitiful looking rashers were like bark. She couldn’t even say it was like jerky.. because jerky is delicious. No, this was what we imagined eating bark from a tree to be like. The smashed avo was the real winner here. (Note: this is pictured with gluten free bread).
As always, I find myself stuck trying to choose between two dishes; the quesadillas with smoked cheese, creme fraiche and black bean salsa ($14) or the Moroccan baked eggs with deconstructed chicken sausages and tomato sugo ($17). I had to know what a “deconstructed chicken sausage” was and also, I really don’t like black beans but I was drawn in by the idea of smoked cheese.
I have never really understood the concept of deconstructed food. Kind of like how I don’t understand Tetris or how to fit furniture through doorways – my brain just doesn’t compute. What could “deconstructed” mean for a chicken sausage? Will my baked eggs have casing, mince, fillers etc all swimming in the tomato sugo? I feel like if you were going to pick a food to “deconstruct” – pick anything else other than a sausage. As it turns out there was only one thing that was remotely identifiable as meat in my baked eggs and I was left thinking that a deconstructed sausage is probably the most wanker-ish thing I have ever heard of.
So now we have that rant out of the way, what about the rest of the dish? To be honest, it tasted pretty bloody good. I am a big fan of Moroccan flavours – the cumin and the coriander and all those punchy spices just go so perfectly with a tomato sugo that has been patiently cooked out to let the tomatoes reveal their cheeky sweetness. And of course, baked eggs aren’t complete without a healthy serving of bread drizzled in extra virgin for mopping up the sauce.
The service is a bit mismatched between wait staff and the kitchen and barista. On one hand they have floor staff who are quick, attentive, friendly and do all the right things, like take your coffee order first. Then you end up asking “where is my coffee?” and waiting for food to come out from a kitchen that is slower than the plot of The Bold and the Beautiful. The food can take a little longer IF the coffee is quick but as soon as I start wondering where my coffee is – they’ve lost me.
There’s obviously a few teething issues here but The Old Laundry is on the right path to proving a small bar can do breakfast well. Hopefully this is a sign that things are getting interesting in old North Perth again.22 Angove Street, North Perth
Breakfast served every day from 7am Originally posted on WA Today – Friday 10th April 2015